A Primer on Lawyers in the Regency Era

The topic of lawyers in the Regency Era often raises lot of confusion along with the privileges of peers in the British Legal system. It wasn’t until quite recently that the historical differences between what type of lawyer you were dictated where you could practice, what types of cases you could take and even if you could be hired directly by clients in Britain and the nobility has a long history of believing themselves above the law.

"The Rush to the Bar" from page 31 of 'Ballads of the Bench and Bar; or, Idle Lays of the Parliament House. 1882.
"The Rush to the Bar" from page 31 of 'Ballads of the Bench and Bar; or, Idle Lays of the Parliament House. 1882.

Common Law vs Civil Law

Civil law is a direct descendant of Roman Law where laws are codified and collected and brought into existence by a legislative body. The English Law or Common Law is also known as judge-made and is heavily based on legal precedent and depends on the judges in the courts using common sense when considering the facts before them. This lead to a very stratified judicial system where judges were often biased so it became a game for lawyers in the Regency Era to gain access to the courts by virtue of their rank in society and who they knew.

Barristers vs Solicitors

Traveling judges of the higher courts made circuitous journeys trying cases, which brought us the term Circuit Court. Thus, certain lawyers in the Regency Era who were more familiar with those judges, had access to a wider pool of case decisions and material and therefore more likely to be “called to the bar” (a physical barrier that separated the public from those practicing law and making judgements) became known as barristers.

Traditionally these lawyers were engaged by other lawyers to present their cases to the judges as they came around on their circuits. The barristers were prevented from directly “taking orders” or being hired by the public. The go-betweens were known as solicitors and were responsible for all the public facing details required in a case and other more mundane matters that were seen as beneath the notice of the barristers.

So, if one were in need of contracts being drawn up, one would hire a solicitor. If you were accused of a crime, you would also hire a solicitor who would then hire a barrister to represent your case before the judge.

Privilege of Peerage

Another legal wrinkle during the Regency is that peers of the realm enjoyed the privilege of being free from arrest in matters of civil law. This was most often seen in the case of avoiding debtor’s prison until 1870 when imprisonment for debt and the related privilege were abolished.

Between 1547 and 1841, peers and peeresses convicted of a crime other than murder or treason could plead “privilege of peerage” upon first offense. Before it’s abolishment in 1841, this privilege was only invoked five times. The last time was by James Brudenell, 7th Earl of Cardigan who planned to claim the privilege if convicted of duelling. However, he was acquitted before the Bill was introduced.

Peers of the realm used to be tried by other peers in the House of Lords. Since 1948, peers are tried by juries made up of commoners and as of 1999, peers are no longer exempt from jury duty. However, peers can be subject to impeachment, a procedure separate from trials in the House of Lords which included charges for felonies and treason, although that is the court for both. Impeachment charges could include felonies, treason and misdemeanors. The last case of impeachment brought before the House of Lords was against Henry Dundas, 1st Viscount Melville, in 1806 for misappropriating public money of which he was acquitted.


More information regarding a variety of other Regency-themed topics can be found on my Regency Resource page. If you’d like more information on a specific place or topic, please let me know in the comments section below.

A Primer on Regency Era Currency

This week’s Regency Primer Series entry focuses on Regency Era currency and how people referred to money as opposed to what it could purchase. The British resisted decimalized currency for a long time because they thought it was too complicated.

Denominations of Regency Era Currency

The basics that were in use at the time of the Regency are as follows:

Penny crown coins: One Penny, copper tokens, 1812.
One Penny, copper tokens, 1812.

Two farthings = One ha’penny.

Two ha’pennies = One penny.

Three pennies = A Thrupenny Bit.

Two Thrupences = A Sixpence.

Two Sixpences = A Shilling or Bob*.

Two Shillings = A Florin.

Regency Era Currency: 1813 Three Pence, copper tokens.
Three Pence or thruppence, copper tokens, 1813.
One Florin and One Sixpence = Half a Crown.

Two Half Crowns = One Crown

Four Half Crowns = A Ten Bob Note.

Two Ten Bob Notes = One Pound (or 240 pennies).

Sovereign = a gold coin valued at one pound that was introduced in 1817

One Pound and One Shilling = One Guinea.

 

Regency Era Currency: One Shilling, silver tokens, 1812.
One Shilling, silver tokens, 1812.

Whimsical English Money Terms

However, the British have always had a diverse set of nicknames for money, or blunt, since it was considered very crass to discuss money. Terms for Regency era currency ranged from Monkeys, Ponies, Bits, Tanners, Grands, Tilburies, Nickers, Oxfords, to Quids (squids). And these were just the national ones, each town also had their own variants.

And, this was too complicated? The habit of tradition is amazing.

 

But then a ten bob note is 2 crowns, not 4 half crowns, because that’d just be excessively silly and along the lines of calling a thrupenny bit “six farthings”.

Crowns, Currency: One crown coin, 1821, after George IV has been crowned.
One crown coin, 1821, after George IV has been crowned.

So then, depending on their class and where they grew up, there are some colorful ways Regency characters might speak of the various denominations of money:

Two farthings = One Ha’penny.

Two ha’pennies = A Penny or bit.

Regency Era Currency: One pound note, Bank of Jersey, 1813.
One pound note, Bank of Jersey, 1813.

Three bits = A Thrupenny.

Two Thrupences = A Sixpence, also know as a Tanner or Tilbury.

Two Tanners = A Shilling or Bob*.

Two Bob = A Florin.

A Florin and a Tilbury = Half Crown. Commonly ‘two-and-six’ for 2 shillings, 6 pence.

Two half Crown = five bob, also a Crown or Oxford. Five shillings.

Two Oxfords = a Ten Bob Note.

Regency Era Currency: One pound note, legal tender, 1818.
One pound note, British Treasury Note, 1818.

Two Ten Bob Notes = One Pound (or 240 pennies) also known as nicker or quid

One Nicker and a Shilling = One Guinea.

Twenty Five quid = a pony.

Twenty ponies = a monkey. (500 pounds)

*Notice that the plural of “bob” is still “bob”.

Hopefully, this will help you recognize how much money is being referenced in the Regency Romance you’re reading or give you some options instead of using the same terms over and over if you’re writing one. Unfortunately this entry doesn’t give any idea of what anything was worth at the time, but I promise that will be a whole different post in the future, as it requires further research.

But I know, the question of “How much would 10,000 pounds per annum be worth today?” burns terribly and you may not be able to wait for that post. In the meantime, check this site on Current Values of Old Money where you can find out, learn more about the history of the pound or explore some historical financial scandals.


More information regarding a variety of other Regency-themed topics can be found on my Regency Resource page. If you’d like more information on a specific place or topic, please let me know in the comments section below.


A Primer on Regency Era Servants

During the Regency, anyone who wanted to portray themselves as having an air of middle-class respectability employed domestic help. To our modern thinking, live-in servants seem an extravagant luxury. However, prior to the advent of electricity and indoor plumbing, the amount of manpower to maintain a modest home — keeping it lit, heated and clean — could be a full-time job. The running of a grand home in an elegant style, such as Duke of Westminster’s household at Eaton Hall, might require up to fifty servants.

And just as the members of the ton or high society were stratified by rank and precedence, so were the servants hired to maintain, clean and run their homes. The rankings observed by Regency Era servants could even be said to be stricter than those they worked for.

Household Staff Hierarchy

Generally, servants fell into two broad categories: upper servants and lower servants. The more responsibilities overseen and the closer the servant worked with the master or mistress of the household, the higher their standing. Typically, in most fiction, we see a butler and a housekeeper as the heads of the male and female staff in a household. A steward would work more closely with the master of the house and, in the master’s absence, perform day to day tasks in his stead. Therefore, butlers deferred to stewards.

Regency Era Servants: One of George Cruikshank's chariactures of the servant class.
“Oh, ah, let em ring again.” George Cruikshank (Servants ignoring the bell)

Likewise, butlers and housekeepers kept an eye on their staff and required employees mind the proprieties much more closely than their employers. In fiction, we often see servants who have served the household since the main character’s childhood. This was more an exception than the norm. Turn over for most household positions averaged every two or three years, and even more frequently for lower staff.

Prominence of the person served was far more important than length of service to the family. Servants of equal job title under the same roof were ranked by the standing, in the family line as well as society, of whom they served. A death in the family caused upheavals as servants’ ranks reshuffled, especially when the heir assumed the title.

This strict adherence to precedence even dictated who ate first. The upper servants dined apart from and before the lower servants. This stratification of rank also extended to the servants of visitors.

The Upper Regency Era Servants

Steward

In large households, the master and mistress of the house did not directly supervise the help. Gentlemen of great wealth and importance often had a steward, a sort of personal assistant, whose duties included management of the domestic staff. Beneath the steward, or at the top of the hierarchy in large households that did not employ a steward, came the butler and housekeeper. Jane Austen’s World has a great post describing the hiring of Regency Era servants.

Butler

The butler was the head of the male servants. He was in charge of the wine cellar and the household’s silver and china. The butler also dealt with visitors and so had to be aware of social distinctions and proper etiquette. Unlike lower servants, the butler was always called by his surname.

Housekeeper

The housekeeper supervised the female staff. She kept the household accounts, managed the linens and carried a large keyring with all the household keys on it. She also prepared coffee, tea, and preserves. Even if she was unmarried, everyone called her “Mrs.” as a sign of respect.

Lady’s Maids

A very desirable position, the lady’s maid served the lady or ladies of the house directly and were not under the housekeeper’s control. A lady’s maid styled hair, helped her mistress dress and undress and maintained her wardrobe. She might also read aloud or massage her mistress’s temples when she had a headache. A lady’s maid was expected to be pretty and personable, and preferably French. With the Napoleonic Wars, few suitable French girls were available. Thus, some ladies of fashion employed English maids and simply called them by French names.

Valets

A gentleman’s valet acted as the gentleman of the house’s personal barber, assisted him to dress and undress, and maintained his wardrobe. A common alternative term for a valet is a gentleman’s gentleman. In England, the word valet rhymes with the word, “ballot”.

Cooks and Chefs

Ladies of the Regency Era did not cook for their own families. The cook (or male chef in a great house) was usually employed directly by the master or mistress of the house. They often received a higher salary than the steward and as such regarded as separate from the rest of the domestic staff.

The Lower Regency Era Servants

Footmen

Footmen announced visitors, served at meals, and attended the family when they went out (often to carry packages while shopping on Bond Street in much fiction). As their duties also included elements of the bodyguard or bouncer, footmen tended to be tall and imposing. Since they dealt with visitors, employers also preferred footmen to be good-looking.

Chamber Maids or House Maids

The duties of other maids were considerably more taxing. Housemaids were the standard kind of maid. They were responsible for carrying coal, lighting the fires, heating water for washing and bathing and carrying it upstairs to the bedrooms. The also cleaned chamber pots, changed bed linens, drew the curtains, and scrubbed the floors.

Large households divided the housemaids into upper and lower maids. The upper housemaids performed the duties that required direct interaction with the family and visitors. Like footmen, they were therefore expected to be more presentable in terms of appearance and manners. They might also be in charge of decorating. Lower housemaids were responsible for heavier and dirtier work.

Kitchen Maids

Kitchen maids, in turn, served the Cook or chef. The kitchen maids lit the stoves and helped with meal preparation. Clean up fell to the scullery maids.

Scullery Maids and Laundry Maids

Considered the lowest in the hierarchy, scullery maid and laundry maids did the most difficult and painful work. The only cleansing agents at the time were harsh abrasives like sand and lye. With lavish multi-course dinner parties all the fashion during the Regency, scullery maids often worked long hours cleaning the hundreds of dirty dishes generated during such an affair.

Maid Of All Work

In less wealthy households, a single woman, a maid-of-all-work, might perform all of the above tasks. Her workdays might last from 6 a.m. to 11 p.m., for about two shillings per week. These maids were not merely the hardest working; they were also the most common. By Victorian times, three-fifths of all maids were maids-of-all-work.

Specialty Maids

Some households employed specialty maids for specific tasks. Dairymaids or milkmaids milked cows and churned butter on country estates. Nursemaids cared for small children. Nursemaids were usually under twenty years of age and were the only female servants who spent much time out of the house, as they took the children for daily walks, which made them very popular with young soldiers.

Outdoor Staff

These jobs would have included the coachmen, who both cared for and drove the coaches, and grooms for the horses. There was often a gardener, with assistants beneath him for homes with extensive grounds. Country estates often employed a gamekeeper to breed and feed game. The gamekeeper’s remote cottage often serves as an oh-so-convenient haven for the hero and heroine when caught out during storms.


Visit my Regency Resource page for more information regarding a variety of other Regency-themed topics. If you’d like more information on a specific place or topic, please let me know in the comments section below.

A Primer on the Regency Era Royal Family

Before we meet the members of the Regency Era Royal Family, I should really explain what is meant by “The Regency”. In last week’s post about Regency Peerage and Precedence, and indeed the rest of the Regency Primer Series, I apologize for assuming that everyone just knows what’s meant when I say, “The Regency”.

Formally, “The Regency” refers to the period of British history from 1811 until 1820. After King George III slipped into permanent madness when his favorite daughter, Princess Amelia died on November 2, 1810, he was deemed unfit to rule and his son, George, Prince of Wales, was installed as the king’s proxy as Regent until his own coronation after his father’s death in 1820.

The “Regency Era” is usually used to describe a wider time period characterized by distinct trends in architecture, fashion, literature, political relations and culture that spans from 1795 until 1837 (the latter part of the reign of George III and the reigns of his sons George IV, as Prince Regent and King, and William IV) when Queen Victoria was crowned.

The Regency Era Royal Family

Regency Era Royal Family: Portrait of King George III of England, Queen Charlotte and their family
King George III of England, Queen Charlotte and their family
The Sovereigns, King George III and Queen Charlotte (George III slipped into permanent madness after his favorite daughter, Princess Amelia died Nov 2, 1810.)

Regency Era Royal Family: Portrait of George, Prince of Wales, Prince Regent and later King George IV
George, Prince of Wales, Prince Regent and later King George IV

George, Prince of Wales, Prince Regent from Feb 1811 until his coronation as King George IV Jan 1820 and reigned until 1830

Wife: Caroline, Princess of Wales (married 1795)
Children: Charlotte (born 1796, married 1816, died 1817 in childbirth)

Frederick, Duke of York (married 1791)

Wife: Frederica, Duchess of York

William, Duke of Clarence (King William IV 1830-1837)

Regency Era Royal Family: Portrait of William IV of England
William IV of England

Wife: Adelaide, Duchess of Clarence (married 1818)
Children: (10 bastards by Mrs. Jordan)
Charlotte (born & died 1819)
Elizabeth (born 1820, died 1821)

Charlotte, Princess Royal

Edward, Duke of Kent (married 1818)

Wife: Victoire, Duchess of Kent
Children: Victoria (born 1819, Queen Victoria of England 1837)

Princess Augusta

Regency Era Royal Family: Portrait of Queen Victoria
Queen Victoria of England

Princess Elizabeth

Ernest, Duke of Cumberland (married 1815, King Ernest of Hanover 1837)

Wife: Frederica, Duchess of Cumberland
Children: George (born 1819, King of Hanover 1851)

Augustus, Duke of Sussex (married 1793, but the marriage was never approved by the king, so it violated the Royal Marriage Act, which removed his children from the royal succession; received the title Duke of Sussex in 1801
after parting with his wife)

Wife: Lady Augusta DeAmeland (she was awarded use of this surname in 1801)
Children: Mister Frederick DeAmeland (born 1794)
Miss Emma DeAmeland (born 1801)

Adolphus, Duke of Cambridge (married 1818)

Wife: Augusta, Duchess of Cambridge
Children: George (born 1819)
Augusta (born 1822)
Mary (born 1833)

Princess Mary

Princess Sophia

Octavius (died age 3)

Alfred (died age 2)

Princess Amelia (died Nov 2, 1810)


More information regarding a variety of other Regency-themed topics can be found on my Regency Resource page. If you’d like more information on a specific place or topic, please let me know in the comments section below.

A Primer on Regency Peerage and Precedence

An authority on Regency Peerage and Precedence: a copy of Debrett's Peerage and Baronetage
A veritable Who’s Who of Society.
I had trouble narrowing down today’s post. On one hand, Allison Lane covered everything related to the peerage so wonderfully and succinctly in her page on Common Regency Errors, that trying to summarize it or embellish it seemed a waste of effort. So, if you’ve ever wanted British nobility explained or wondered who outranked whom in the Regency Peerage or just why some characters get to go in to dinner first or why someone has to wait until everyone else has gone in, keep reading. If you want to know more details, please, visit Ms Lane’s page, it truly is an amazing resource on its own.

On the other hand, Laura A. Wallace also provides a good bit of information on the peerage on her British Titles of Nobility pages which are much easier to follow after reading through Ms Lane’s. Ms Wallace’s page on Correct Forms of Address, whether speaking or in writing, is one of the best resources on Regency titles that I’ve found.

The English Peerage

A peer of the realm is one who holds one (or more of five possible) title(s) of nobility and the estate(s) bestowed upon him or his direct ancestor by the monarch.

Duke and Duchess

The title of Duke was given to the highest ranking peers below the Royal Family. Compared to the number of hot, eligible but fictional Dukes, the actual number of non-royal dukes in existence in 1818 was 25 and included English, Scottish and Irish titles. The number of hot and eligible ones was much lower. The title of Duke is a territorial title and the English title never includes the surname. Dukes and Duchesses are always referred to as “Your Grace” and never as as “Lord or Lady ____”.

Marquess/Marquis and Marchioness

The next highest rank is marquess (or to use the Scottish and French spelling, marquis) which is pronounced as “mar-kwess” in English. In 1818, there were 31 marquesses. The title of Marquess is typically territorial (all but 3) and all but 5 of the titles use the form “Marquess of ______”.

Earl and Countess

The title of Earl sits smack dab in the middle in both terms of power and had 212 titles in 1818. Likewise, Earldoms are typically territorial, but a few of the titles do not use the form “Earl of ____” and instead use “Earl _____” using the surname.

Viscount and Viscountess

In 1818, there were 69 viscounts. The title Viscount never uses the form “Viscount of _____” although a territorial addition is often made to the title. Viscount _____ of ______.

Baron and Baroness

Typically the largest number of titles, but in 1818, there were only 193 barons. The title of Baron never uses the form “Baron of _____” although often a territorial addition is made to the title. Baron _____ of ______. They are never spoken of as “Baron _____” but always “Lord _____”. Lord Byron is a good example.

Baronet and Dame

Baronets are not peers, but rather the highest rank of the gentry class. They do not sit in the House of Lords and if they commit a crime they are tried in the regular courts. Baronets are hereditary knights and are thus use “Sir” with their given names.

Knight and Dame

Also not peers, nor are they hereditary titles. Knights and Dames are recognized for outstanding achievement and does not affect one’s standing unless it is one of the ancient orders of knighthood listed in the precedence tables. A Dame’s title has no bearing on her husband’s standing either.

Precedence

Another resource for Regency Peerage and Precedence: British Nobility Ranks, Charles Lamb's Book on Precedence
A primer for young children to learn their place in society.

Precedence determines relative power. Every member of the ton knew exactly where he or she ranked in relation to every other member. Even within categories, precedence is determined by the date the related title was created. If two were created the same day, then the one the king signed first has precedence. If two people are related in the same way to the same title (younger sons, for example), then their own birthdates determined precedence. No two people could ever have the exact same precedence.

Precedence was of vital importance to every member of society and was something taught from birth. It was used in many ways – seating at formal dinners, processions at court, importance in Parliament, even the order in which people were allowed to enter Almack’s, etc. It indicated the degree of deference a person must show to those above them or expect from those below, including the depth of a bow or curtsy. Part of the reason behind this order of precedence is so everyone could see at a glance, where they stood in relation to everyone else in a room. In the tables below from Charles Lamb’s The Book of the Ranks and Dignities of British Society: Chiefly Intended for the Instruction of Young Persons, the ranks most often found in novels are in bold type.

Precendency of Men in England

King
Prince of Wales
King’s Younger Sons
King’s Brothers
King’s Uncles
King’s Grandsons
King’s Nephews
Vice Regent, when any such officer exists
Archbishop of Canterbury
Lord High Chancellor or Lord Keeper
Archbishop of York Lord High Treasurer
Lord President of Privy Council
Lord Privy Seal
Lord High Constable in Commission
Hereditary Earl Marshall
Lord High Admiral
Lord Steward of His Majesty’s Household
Dukes, according to patents of creation
Marquesses, according to their patents
Duke’s Eldest Sons
Earls, according to their patents
Marquesses’ Eldest Sons
Dukes’ Younger Sons
Viscounts, 
according to their patents
Earl’s Eldest Sons
Marquesses’ Younger Sons

Bishop of London
Bishop of Durham
Bishop of Winchester
Other Bishops, according to seniority of consecration
Barons, according to their patents of creation, but if any baron be Principal Secretary of State, he shall be placed above all barons unless they hold any of the great offices before mentioned
Speaker of the House of Commons
Viscounts’ Eldest Sons
Earls’ Younger Sons
Barons’ Eldest Sons

Knights of the Most Noble Order of the Garter
Privy Counselors
Chancellor of the Exchequer
Chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster
Lord Chief Justice of the King’s Bench
Master of the Rolls
Lord Chief Justice of the Common Pleas
Lord Chief Baron of the Exchequer
Judges, according to the degree of coif of the said courts, according to seniority
Bannerets, made under the king’s own royal standard, displayed in an army royal, in open war,by the king himself in person, for the term of their lives only and no longer
Viscounts’ Younger Sons
Barons’ Younger Sons
Baronets

Knights of the Most Noble Order of the Bath
Knights Bachelors
Baronets’ Eldest Sons
Knights’ of the Garter Eldest Sons
Knights’ of the Bath Eldest Sons
Knights Bachelors’ Eldest Sons
Doctors of Divinity, Laws, and Medicine, of the English Universities
Sergeant at Law
Baronets’ Younger Sons
Esquires of the King’s creation by the imposition of a collar of SS
Esquires attending Knights of the Bath
Esquires by office, as Justices of the Peace, etc.
Captains, and Gentlemen of the Privy Chamber, etc.
Knights’ of the Garter Youngest Sons
Knights’ of the Bath Younger Sons
Knights Bachelors’ Younger Sons
Gentlemen entitled to bear arms
Gentlemen by office, function, or profession
Clergymen
Attorneys at Law, Etc.
Citizens
Burgesses, etc.

Precedency of Women in England

Queen
Princess of Wales
Princess Royal
Younger Daughters of the King
Duchess of York
Wives of the King’s Younger Sons
Wives of the King’s Brothers
Wives of the King’s Uncles
Wives of the Eldest Sons of Dukes of the Royal Blood
Daughters of Dukes of the Royal Blood
Wives of the King’s Brothers’ or Sister’s Sons
Duchesses
Marchionesses
Wives of the Eldest Sons of Dukes
Daughters of Dukes
Countesses
Wives of the Eldest Sons of Marquesses
Daughters of Marquesses
Wives of the Younger Sons of Dukes
Viscountesses
Wives of the Eldest Sons of Earls
Daughters of Earls
Wives of the Younger Sons of Marquesses
Baronesses
Wives of the Eldest Sons of Viscounts
Daughters of Viscounts
Wives of the Younger Sons of Earls
Wives of the Eldest Sons of Barons
Daughters of Barons
Wives of the Youngest Sons of Barons
Dames, Wives of Baronets

Wives of Knights of the Garter
Wives of Bannerets of each kind
Wives of Knights of the Bath
Wives of Knights Bachelors
Wives of the Eldest Sons of Baronets
Daughters of Baronets

Wives of the Eldest Sons of the Knights of the Garter
Daughters of Knights of the Garter
Wives of the Eldest Sons of Bannerets of each kind
Daughters of Bannerets of each kind
Wives of the Eldest Sons of Knights of the Bath
Daughters of Knights of the Bath
Wives of the Eldest Sons of Knights Bachelors
Wives of Sergeants at Law, and Doctors of Divinity, Law, and Medicine of the English Universities
Wives of the Younger Sons of Baronets
Daughters of Knights Bachelors
Wives of Esquires, attendant on Knights of the Bath
Wives of Esquires by office, as Justices of the Peace
Wives of Captains, Gentlemen of the Privy Chamber, etc.
Wives of the Younger Sons of Knights of the Garter
Wives of the Younger Sons of Knights of the Bath
Wives of the Younger Sons of Knights Bachelors
Wives of Gentlemen, lawfully bearing Coat Armor
Daughters of Esquires, lawfully bearing Coat Armor, who are Gentlewomen by birth
Wives of Gentlemen by office, function, or profession, as Clergymen, Attorney’s at Law, etc.
Wives of Citizens
Wives of Burgesses, etc.


More information regarding a variety of other Regency-themed topics can be found on my Regency Resource page. If you’d like more information on a specific place or topic, please let me know in the comments section below.


A Primer on Regency Era Men’s Fashion

Last week’s post covered Regency Era Women’s Fashions. So this week we’ll focus on Regency Era Men’s Fashion. These lists aren’t exhaustive and represent fashions men of the upper classes rather than working class wore. However, they should help you recognize what an author means and why they’re so focused on their characters being fashion conscious.

A couple showing off typical Regency Era Fashions.Last week, we covered the terms “Undress”, “Half Dress” and “Full Dress”. For men, “Undress” included having his jacket and cravat removed, something that was not done in polite or mixed company if the gentleman could avoid it. Dressing gowns and robes also fit this bill for gentlemen lounging at home. “Half Dress” for men meant less elaborate knots in their neck cloths, and more casual styles of clothing. “Full Dress” and “Evening Dress” are the equivalent of today’s black tie affairs. Therefore, Almack’s was a special case, where gentlemen of the ton were expected to wear breeches instead of trousers.

Regency Era Men’s Fashions

If you haven’t seen the movie, Beau Brummell – This Charming Man (affiliate link)Amazon tracking pixelwith James Purefoy and Hugh Bonneville, let me whet your appetite with this clip of the opening. It tells the story of Beau Brummel and his influence on all matters sartorial.


Ahh, those visuals are something else, aren’t they?

I’ll wait if you want to replay it in full screen mode.

Ok, back now? Good. Most importantly, did you notice the anachronism? There’s a big, glaring one. It’s much more dramatic looking when James Puerfoy’s shirt opens all the way down the front instead of only partway down from the neck. So, good cinematic choice, bad historical detail.

The clip reminds me that author Kalen Hughes has a great post over at Word Wenches where she goes through the steps of dressing your Regency hero from the skin out. If you visit that post, you’ll get better idea of how long it took to dress and the order everything goes on or off in. In the same vein, Jessamyn’s Regency Costume Companion has a fabulous page that describes and details a number of men’s Regency Era fashions.

Underclothes

Small Clothes/Smalls/Drawers
short drawers (more like modern boxers) or long drawers (basically what we think of as long johns)
Stockings and Garters
Calf-high, usually cotton or silk.

Gentlemen, like ladies, possessed a variety of outfits considered appropriate to a specific activity. So for example, one required specific jackets more suited to riding, but overall the emphasis and time spent on dressing for the next activity was not as time-consuming for men as it was for women. Isn’t that always the case?

Basic Upper Body Garments

Regency Era Men's Fashion: tailcoat with squared cut away in front, circa 1812
Tailcoat with squared cut away in front, circa 1812.
Shirts
Typically made from white muslin, shirts pulled on and off over the head and did not button all the way up the front like modern dress shirts and the one in the video above. Collars would have been high enough to reach the chin when starched and standing up. Similary, the neck and sleeves might have ruffles or not.
Waist Coat
What we’d think of today as a vest, these had a high collar and could be double breasted but were usually single breasted. Properly pronounced as “wes-kit”.
Tailcoat/jacket/coat
Likewise, men’s tailcoats could be double or single breasted, with a distinctive “M” shape to the tails.

Basic Lower Body Garments

Pants
Men enjoyed a variety of pants of different lengths and snugness. Rather than a modern zipper, Regency breeches opened with a flap called a “fall” that opened in the front and fastened with an elaborate series of buttons. The width of the front panel determined if one was wearing “broad fall” or “narrow fall” breeches. The Historical Hussies have a great post on Regency Men’s Pants that includes a great illustration of this construction.
Breeches
Knee length pants worn with stockings during this period. Considered old-fashioned, breeches were de rigueur at Almack’s.
Trousers with braces (suspenders)
Originally worn by the working class, trousers became an option for the upper classes around 1807. Regency men did not wear belts due to the construction of their pants and the cut of their coats. Instead, suspenders or braces kept their pants in place.
Pantaloons
Cut on the bias to achieve a much closer fit and typically worn with highly polished tall boots, pantaloons extended to mid calf or below.
Inexpressibles
Scandalously tight leggings that left little to the imagination.
Buckskins
Made from deerskin and considered the equivalent of denim jeans in their day, comfortable and practical.

Outerwear

Regency Era Men's Fashion: Great coat with capes, circa 1811
Great coat with capes, circa 1811.
Great Coat
Think of a great coat as the flamboyant and dashing trenchcoat of its day, not all were as fancy as to have capes attached, but many were simple coats to keep one warm or dry.

Shoes
Worn for informal occasions and evening events, usually made of leather.
Boots
Typically Hessians were acceptable during the day but not at night. Top boots were another popular choice.

Accessories

Regency Era Men's Fashion: a simpler overcoat
A simpler overcoat for a stroll in the park or night at Vauxhall Gardens. Notice the shoes instead of boots.
Cravat/stock
Elevated by George “Beau” Brummel, this long rectangular piece of cloth became quite the showpiece. Depending on the man’s rank and skill of his valet, the cravat was starched and folded and then tied in one of numerous ways, ranging from simple to complicated knots. Get more information at Regency Reproductions and also a free pattern to make a cravat.
Gloves, Canes, Pocket Watches, Watch Fobs, Quizzing Glasses
All indicators of wealth and status. However, they were also functional and practical as well as examples of fine craftsmanship.
Wallets or Purses
Made of leather or fabric to hold notes and coins
Hats
Several styles to choose from: topper (what we call a top hat), beaver hat

In the Bedchamber

Nightclothes/Nightshirt
Basically a loose, ankle-length nightgown with a floppy open collar — all those heroes must be freezing in their birthday suits!
Nightcap
A knitted silk hat with a tassel on the end
Banyan/Robe/Dressing Gown
A dressing gown was a loose, wraparound, floor-length bathrobe sort of garment. Banyans reached knee-length and fitted more closely to the body. Most preferred rich-colored, luxurious fabrics, such as satin, velvet, or silk damask.

Another source of entertainment are these digital Regency Paper Dolls for your Hero and Heroine. Likewise, you may want to check out my post on The Art of the Cravat as well for examples of the different knots that were fashionable. Visit my post on Women’s Regency Fashions or my Regency Resource page for more information regarding a variety of other Regency-themed topics. If you’d like more information on a specific place or topic, please let me know in the comments section below.